“So you want to work on your Mercedes-Benz,” by Matt Warner.

DISCLAIMER: the following items represent my personal experience with a 1986 300E. Your mileage may vary, especially if your car is a different year or model. No warranty is given as to the accuracy of the information on this page.

Components inside the door

Door Facade Removal
In contrast to some of the Japanese cars on which I've worked, there is only one screw and no snaps holding on the facade to the actual metal structure that makes up the door. If you pull on the facade expecting it to pop off, you will break the plastic attachment points.

1. The one screw holds on a black plastic trim piece where the door actually latches to the chassis. Remove it.
2. Unscrew the door lock pull/knob to remove it.
3. Remove the black plastic trim around the door pull/release by starting at the edge closest to the front of the car; the trim piece slides forward to be removed.
4. Disconnect the metal rod that attaches to the backside of the interior door pull lever by lifting it up and out of the plastic lock. Remove the bolt that attaches the arm rest to the door frame.
5. The door pull lever and surrounding plastic is removed by sliding towards the front of the car and then pulling out (perpendicular) to the door.
6. Remove the door facade by lifting up. It will require some effort, and the edge immediately adjacent to the windows will probably present the biggest challenge.
7. Peel back the plastic vapor barrier (if your car still has it intact).

Door detent/door stop
1. The door pin will undoubtedly be recalcitrant. Remove the clip at the botton of the pin.
2. Then. use a hammer or other object to move the pin upward about 1/4 of an inch. Avoid beating the paint on the surrounding metal. Consider using a plastic hammer, or placing a piece of cardboard to protect the paint.
3. You may be tempted to use pliers once the pin has moved upward, but avoid that urge—it's destructive an inelegant. Instead, spray WD-40 or your favorite spray lubricant, and then move the pin back down, into its original position.
4. Now move the pin upward again with the hammer.
5. Now it's time for the pliers, but grab only the head of the pin and twist it while pulling upward.

Door Strap
The door strap is held by three bolts, two of which are near the hinge. The third bolt is on the side of the door, underneath the plastic vapor barrier. Once the three bolts are removed, the door strap should require almost no force to remove. Reach inside the door and remove it.

Replacement
Some of the replacement door straps come in a plastic liner. I found it impossible to install the door strap with the plastic liner, as the window motor is rigidly positioned in such as way to interfere. I suspect that with later model years the liner can be left without interfering. The door strap itself is about $24 new from the dealer.

Totally Unrelated
If your blower motor burns out, you can purchase a brand new motor (without squirrel cages) for about $99. Compared to rebuilt or new costs for the entire assembly (about $300, as I recall), I think it’s worth it. You can use a long punch to gently tap off the squirrel cages without breaking them. The motor is Bosch P/N 0130 111 012 (058), at least for my ’86 300E.